The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley) A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest Peak in North America

"The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley)" by Hudson Stuck is a narrative account of the first complete ascent of the highest peak in North America, written in the early 20th century. The book chronicles the author's expedition to Denali, detailing not only the climb but also the preparation and the people involved in the journey. Stuck, an archdeacon of the Yukon, emphasizes both the majesty of the mountain and the need to restore its original native name, Denali, to honor the indigenous culture connected to the land. The opening of the narrative sets the stage for the climb, recounting the author's long-standing fascination with Denali and his deep respect for the native culture. Stuck describes the meticulous preparation for the expedition, both logistically and psychologically, as well as the diverse team he assembled, including experienced local guides and young adventurers. Each member of the party is introduced, highlighting their unique backgrounds and the synergy they bring into this challenging endeavor. This initial portion lays a strong foundation for the account of struggle, teamwork, and respect for nature that will unfold throughout their ascent. (This is an automatically generated summary.)

Hudson Stuck was a British native who became an Episcopal priest, social reformer and mountain climber in the United States. With Harry P. Karstens, he co-led the first expedition to successfully climb Denali in June 1913, via the South Summit. He published five books about his years in Alaska. Two memoirs were issued in new editions in 1988, including his account of the ascent of Denali.